The 11th is where modern Parisian food culture lives. From Oberkampf's late-night bars to the restaurant row around Charonne and Parmentier, this former working-class district now contains more exciting eating per square meter than anywhere else in the city. It retains a progressive, slightly rebellious spirit from its artisan and revolutionary past.
Young professionals, food obsessives, and creative types. Late nights, natural wine, and a deliberate rejection of stuffiness. Less polished than western Paris, and proudly so. The best new restaurants often open here first.